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Itineraries · Manhattan

One day in Manhattan without the tourist traps

Central Park at nine, the Met before the crowd, Grand Central and Bryant Park on the way down, then the High Line into Chelsea's free galleries and an evening of aimless walking in the West Village — the Manhattan that's actually good.

Manhattan is the borough everyone means when they say New York, which is exactly why the standard day in it is a trap: Times Square is a screen you stand in front of, and the observation decks are expensive ways to look at the thing you are standing in. The good version of Manhattan is the park at nine in the morning, the museums before eleven, the High Line early, and the one part of the island where the grid gives up.

This day runs north to south, because that is downhill in the sense that matters — the morning is the structured part and the evening is the loose part. It is mostly free. The Met is pay-what-you-wish only for New York State residents and nearby students; everyone else pays, and it is the one thing on this list worth paying for. The High Line, the galleries, the park, the terminal and the West Village cost nothing.

Wear real shoes. It is seven or eight miles if you walk the whole thing, and you should.

The day

  1. Central ParkFree

    Enter at 72nd Street on the west side — the B or C — and give it two hours: Strawberry Fields, the lake, Bethesda Terrace, the Mall, then north along the east side of the Ramble toward the Met. At nine on a weekday the park belongs to runners and dog-walkers and it is the best version of itself. The route on the spot page is the one to follow.

  2. Come out of the park at 79th or 81st Street on the east side and the museum is on Fifth Avenue — a five-minute walk.

    The Metropolitan Museum of ArtPaid

    Two and a half hours, and choose. The Egyptian wing with the Temple of Dendur, the European paintings, the American Wing courtyard and the roof garden in season will fill it; the rest of the two million objects will be there on your next visit. Arrive at opening and you have the first hour before the school groups. It is closed on Wednesdays — the one day this plan does not work as written. The ticket also covers the Cloisters the same day, which is a different itinerary.

  3. The 4, 5 or 6 from 86th Street to Grand Central–42nd Street, about ten minutes. Or the M1, M2, M3 or M4 bus down Fifth Avenue if you want to sit and look.

    Grand Central TerminalFree

    Twenty minutes, for free. Stand on the west balcony and look at the ceiling, find the whispering gallery by the Oyster Bar, look at the clock. This is a working station and one of the great interiors in the world; most of the people in it are late for a train and will never look up. Lunch in the lower-level market if you are hungry now.

  4. Walk west along 42nd Street for five minutes. You will pass the library; go in if the doors are open, the reading room is free.

    Bryant ParkFree

    Half an hour to sit. In summer there are free games, free films some evenings and free Wi-Fi always; in winter it is the skating rink and the holiday market. This is the pause in the day, and the only part of Midtown on the plan.

  5. The 7 from Fifth Avenue two stops west to 34th Street–Hudson Yards, which puts you at the northern entrance — ten minutes all in. Walk the High Line south.

    The High LineFree

    An hour, walking south toward Gansevoort Street. Mid-afternoon on a weekday is fine; a summer weekend at noon is a slow-moving queue thirty feet in the air, which is why this plan puts it here and not at lunchtime. Drop down at 23rd Street.

  6. The galleries are directly under the High Line between West 20th and 27th Streets. Come down the stairs at 23rd Street and walk toward Tenth Avenue.

    The Chelsea GalleriesFree

    An hour or two, and it is all free — these are shops, and nobody will make you buy anything. Pick a block and go into whatever is open; there are around two hundred of them and the survey of contemporary art you get across a dozen doors is better than most museums'. Closed Sundays and Mondays, mostly, which matters for the plan.

  7. Walk south on Ninth or Tenth Avenue. Below 14th Street the grid bends and you are in it within fifteen minutes.

    The West VillageFree

    The evening, with no plan. Get to Christopher Street or Bleecker and stop navigating — the crooked streets and low brick houses are the point, and the best of it is found by turning down whatever looks good. Dinner here is not cheap but it is everywhere; the jazz clubs are the right way to end the day if you have the money, and the stoops are the right way if you don't.

Common questions

Where are the Statue of Liberty and the Empire State Building?

Not on this day, by design. The Staten Island Ferry passes the statue for free and runs all night, so it fits into any evening — see the Staten Island pages. The observation decks cost a lot to look at a skyline you can see for nothing from Gantry Plaza in Queens or the Brooklyn waterfront, both of which are on other itineraries here. If you want them anyway, take them off another day, not this one.

What if it rains?

Swap the order. The Met first and for longer, Grand Central, then the galleries in Chelsea, which are indoors and free. The park and the High Line are worse in the rain but not ruined; the West Village is arguably better, because the crowds go home. The whole day is within one borough and one subway line of itself, so rearranging it costs nothing.

Is this doable with children?

The park, the Met and the High Line, yes — that is a full and good day on its own and ends at Chelsea Market, which is under the High Line at 16th Street. The galleries and the West Village evening are for adults who like walking without a destination. Cut the plan after the High Line and take the A, C or E from 14th Street back.

Who should skip this

Anyone who genuinely wants Times Square, a Broadway show and an observation deck — those are real things people enjoy, and this day deliberately walks past all of them.

Every stop on this plan